Travel and Dish

It’s never too late to plan your holiday vacation. I’m going to share why spending time on the Mississippi River is a festive and memorable way to celebrate.

European holiday cruises are hugely popular, but last December I stayed closer to home and cruised the Mississippi River. Louisiana and Mississippi are balmy and green into late November and December, making for comfortable touring and cozy evenings by the fireplace. My Viking Mississippi Delta Explorer cruise departed from New Orleans and ended in Memphis, with five stops in smaller towns decked out for the holidays.

The ports of New Orleans, Darrow, Baton Rouge, Vicksburg, Natchez, Greenville and Memphis were aglow with light installations and holiday craft markets, and I enjoyed the peaceful roll down America’s largest river during a hectic time of year. Although I’m a regular ocean ship cruiser, I had never taken a river cruise before. But the idea of a relaxing glow-up before Christmas sounded like the perfect way to get into the spirit.

First of My Two-Part Series: New Orleans and Darrow, Louisiana

Before boarding the ship in New Orleans, I spent a day exploring one of my favorite cities in the world. I could visit every year and never tire of the culinary scene and the friendly people. New Orleans at Christmastime is idyllic, because this historic city is all about celebrating. I stayed at the luxurious the Roosevelt Hotel Waldorf Astoria which is a literal destination in itself. The lobby was filled with glittering lights that guests gathered under, posing for family photos or Instagram posts. These revelers were in good company. The Roosevelt has welcomed countless dignitaries and performers, including Judy Garland, Frank Sinatra,Sonny and Cher, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe and Ginger Rogers, along with U.S. Presidents Coolidge, Eisenhower, and Ford.

Another must-see spot is the Ritz Carlton New Orleans where you can enjoy stunning decor, with glass ornaments hand blown in New Orleans. The hotel gives out free donuts, called Beignets to visitors. I spoke to the guest services manager at the Ritz Carlton who explained that the building is 100 years old and was a former department store called Bingle’s. She says people ask if the hotel events are just for children. “I’m like, yes, children of all ages. That’s kind of what New Orleans is, in a way. The wonderful thing about the magic of holidays is you don’t have to be 10.” That is especially true in New Orleans.

On Board the Viking Mississippi

After boarding and settling into my very comfortable cabin. I enjoyed sumptuous meal in the dining room. I ordered classic Creole dishes – crab beignets, shrimp and grits and king cake – I was in heaven! The Viking Mississippi was first inaugurated in 2022. She carries up to 386 guests across 5 decks. Unlike traditional paddlewheelers you see along the Mississippi River, Viking Mississippi features modern Scandinavian design and all-outside staterooms with private balconies. Every nook and cranny feels elegant and understated with activities ranging from evening musical entertainment, to cooking classes, wine tastings to exercise classes.

Two Bayou Plantation Tours in Louisiana

The next morning, our ship docked in Darrow, Louisiana, a region that is best known for its historic plantations that skirt along the serpentine Mississippi River. The dock is directly adjacent to the impressive Houmas House, where the ship’s included tour takes visitors on a journey through time. The period dressed guides explain the lifestyle of Louisiana’s antebellum era and how sugar cane was grown and manufactured pre-Civil War in former swampland. While the tour was fascinating and the home decorated top-to-bottom for Christmas, I was most enchanted by the ancient live oak trees where gold and red balls hung above our heads.

The home’s original structure dates back to 1774, two years before the Declaration of Independence, but our guide explains how Houmas House looks as fresh as its construction in the early 1800s. “The walls are 18 inches thick, made of double brick red clay from the Mississippi River, made here. Spanish moss was added to the brick and makes a fantastic insulator and bonder. It is painted to look like a marble palace on the Mississippi River. Folks, can you imagine how many hurricanes have hit this building? Okay, it’s not going anywhere.”

Later that evening, I toured the Destrehan Plantation, where our guide introduced stories of the people who owned the Bayou plantation, but also the many enslaved men and women who built and farmed it. Our guide focused on how families who lived here spent their holidays. “The Ross family was so busy dealing with the farm, they didn’t have time for parties like we do today. So, on Christmas Eve, they would have fasted all day, being Catholic. Then, at night, they would have instructed the enslaved Mrs. Margaret to make a big meal, which they would eat the next day following Christmas Eve Midnight Mass.” Papa Noel would stop by and leave small gifts for the children.

I was grateful to see the outbuildings where the enslaved lived and toiled at Destrahan Plantation. The scenery at sunset took my breath away. Before leaving, we were treated to a traditional Christmas bonfire and spiced cider with cookies. It was a more honest look at plantation culture and I was so glad I was able to see it.

Whether you’re a history buff or a garden lover, you will enjoy the architecture and landscaping of the plantations along the Mississippi. But in no way should you ignore the darker stories behind plantation life. If you’re seeking to better understand the legacy of slavery and history of the enslaved people on plantations, book a tour at The Whitney Plantation, a non-profit museum, on a former indigo, sugar and rice farm. Everyone who visited said it was an exceptional experience. I wish I could have seen it, but next trip.

I didn’t have to fly to Europe and deal with bitter cold holiday markets after all. Traveling up the Mississippi was a wonderful way to enjoy an American Christmas season.

Stay Tuned for my next installments of this cruise on the Mississippi Delta Explorer with stops in Baton Rouge, Natchez and Vicksburg.