Travel and Dish

A River Runs Through Greenville

When I step outside the posh Grand Bohemian Lodge Greenville, with its collection of Native American art, I hear the hum of water tumbling over Reedy River Falls. It’s not every day you find a natural waterfall in the heart of a city. This unique landscape of urban comforts, surrounded by boundless natural beauty, is why Greenville is an up-and-coming destination.

I’ve visited Greenville a dozen times, and every time I do, I discover new things to love. One of those things is staying at the centrally-located Grand Bohemian Lodge Greenville. From the windows and patios, you can see the tumbling Reedy River with its waterfalls and walking paths. Inside the lobby is a stunning collection of Native American art with a giant fireplace bordered by rocking chairs. The dark paneling and elegant furnishing makes you feel like you’ve entered into a posh mountain resort.

Steps from the hotel’s front door, you can access Falls Park on the Reedy, featuring the suspended 345-foot Liberty Bridge and beautiful cascading waterfalls. Walk up the hill to Main Street where there are dozens of independent shops and restaurants. On First Fridays, the city closes Main Street and hosts local bands and food trucks.

To learn about the city’s history and transformation, take a guided tour with Greenville History Tours and/or Greenville Food Tours. On a recent visit, I learned that Greenville was once the textile capital of the south, thanks to the cascading power of the Reedy River. Historian John Nolan showed off the highlights of downtown Greenville and explained the inspiration behind its iconic design. I learned that in 1979, Greenville’s leaders hired renowned architect Lawrence Halprin to design piazzas and tree-lined sidewalks that would resemble a European city. Today, Greenville’s residents spend time enjoying the cafes and parks, just like the Europeans do.

Nolan says the Carolina Knoxville and Western Railroad used to cut through town, and locals called it the “Swamp Rabbit” railroad, because the oversized swamp-dwelling rabbits lived beside the tracks. When the train stopped running in the 1990s, the city turned the railroad tracks into the Swamp Rabbit Trail, a running and biking trail that’s become an amazing amenity for the city.

Whenever I’m in Greenville, I like to stroll sections of the Swamp Rabbit Trail, a 19-mile greenway with a collection of parks and casual eateries along the way. My favorite stop is the Swamp Rabbit Cafe and Grocery, a coop food market that sells local products and produce, but has become a popular hangout for coffee, beer and the enormous handmade sandwiches made from their famous baguettes.

In the nearby town of Greer, BMW built the company’s largest plant outside of Germany, where you can take a free BMW Factory Tour, and afterward, visit Zentrum Museum to see a collection of iconic BMW’s. It’s a big splurge, but there’s also the BMW Performance Center experience where you get to race a BMW and drive over obstacles- it’s so much fun!.

While you’re in Greer, dine at White Wine & Butter where chef Michael Sibert puts on a show with his food. Every dish is uniquely styled, with a twist on the Southern classics. Don’t miss his sweet tea fried chicken, a tangy, golden bird served on a cutting board. 

I also recommend taking a hike at Paris Mountain State Park, with its myriad of forests, creeks, waterfalls and picnic spots. There are 17 miles of hiking trails., and we did the 3.9 Sulphur Springs Trail. Believe me it’s challenging, but there are other shorter and easier options.

Food City

Greenville has gained notoriety for its vibrant food scene, especially after Scoundrel netted Greenville its first Michelin star in 2026. If you can score a seat at this sophisticated French steakhouse, you won’t soon forget chef Joe Cash’s signature steak frites or Cesare salad.

I am obsessed with Camp Modern American Eatery and I encourage you to book a table by the bar to watch this beautifully choreographed team create a lineup of incredible dishes, such as Gambas, a medley of shrimp with peppers and fresh made bread from Rise Bakery.

Speaking of Rise Bakery, the pastries and sandwiches here will make you swoon. I’m also a fan of Comal 864, where I always order the birria quesitacos served by James Beard-nominated chef Dayna Lee. My husband loves the hot chicken sandwich at Yee-Haw Brewing Company and the beer at New Realm Brewing.

To help plan your trip, check out Visit Greenville. Tell them, Renee sent you!